What a nice story about Doe Run Farm's cheese in the latest "Wine Spectator" magazine! A reader alerted me to it last week, and I finally got hold of a copy thanks to my hairdresser, who among her many talents keeps a wide variety of periodicals on hand for her equally varied clientele.
The writer, contributing editor Sam Cugino, visited Richard Hayne's West Marlborough farm and interviewed cheesemaker Kristian Holbrook and his wife Haesel. There's a photo (by Wilmington's Jim Graham!) of Kristian with some of his Jersey cows, with the Hicks Road barn in the background.
Cugino was impressed by how labor-intensive farming is: "In the five hours I observed him, Holbrook not only didn't sit, he rarely stopped moving." He also sampled several cheeses, describing Seven Sisters as "nutty and sweet" with "a caramelized, butterscotch quality"; St. Malachi as "unctuous" and "earthy"; and Hummingbird as having "a nice minerality."
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