"These days, button mushrooms don't get the respect that wild varieties do. Learn the lost art of rendering them irresistible," read the start of a Wall Street Journal article in the "Eating & Drinking" section.
The writer, Cathy Whims, advises that "the trick to making button mushrooms as flavorful as their more exotic cousins is to get rid of their excess moisture, thereby concentrating the intensely earthy umami flavors hidden within."
She suggests doing that by cooking them at high heat and not crowding them in the pan. "The ideal moment of doneness: deeply browned at the edges, still moist inside. That's when a button will be the most savory and succulent -- every bit as delicious as a wild mushroom that sells for five times the price."
Two recipes are given. One is a pasta sauce made of button mushrooms, oil-cured black olives, garlic, Italian parsley, red pepper flakes and heavy cream. The other is a recipe for button mushrooms marinated in olive oil, white wine vinegar, garlic and onions.
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